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Rock climbing in Kalymnos, Greece

50 new routes on Kalymnos by Claude & Yves Remy


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Yves Remy on Saphir 6c, Olympic wall. Photo: Claude Remy

Yves Remy on F.A. of Saphir 6c, olympic wall, Kalymnos. Photo: Claude Remy

 

Over 12 days in March / April 2010, Claude and Yves Remy set up 50 new routes on Kalymnos at 9 different sectors. Route grades range between 4c+ and 7b+. Some routes could use more traffic to be clean or to confirm grade and quality.

 

For the most part, the easier routes are very well-protected. For routes longer than 35 m take 16 quickdraws (some routes are 40 m). The routes are described by the Remys in detail below, from left to right.

 

 

 

Sector Palionissos – Red Wall
This is a new sector left of the road just before the little village and beach of Palionissos. It is the obvious small red wall 10 minutes above the road.

 

6b Etsi kai etsi 25 m * Wall and some big pockets, same lower-off as Isos
6c Isos 25 m * Wall
Project
7a Kali tyhi 30 m *** Wall
Project
6b+ Kalo mou 30 m *** The wall with conglomerate rock and some small pockets

Claude Remy in action

 

Sector Skalia Pillar
6a+ Koutouzis 25 m ** Wall and corners; Koutouzis is a famous artist in Pothia
6b+ Koutouzis extension 35 m ** This second part is a bit exposed; it shares the same lower-off as Fakir

 

Right of Sea, sun and pain:
7b+ Stone dead for ever 35 m ** A great story about hard rock from Motörhead

 

Right of Orange Grove:
7a Kaly Magic 36 m **** Steep wall

 

Right of Captain Koymantaros:
6b The snow must go on 35 m *** Wall and pockets

 

Right of Big Merci:
6a+ Fegafjyva 25 m *** Wall and good pockets
6b+ Fegafjyva extension 30 m *** Wall and small pockets, short crux

 

Right of 7c+:
6a+ Tandori love 20 m ** Wall and “burning conglomerate rock ”
6a+ Callas 20 m * Wall, lower-off the same as for Video

 

Right of Video:
5c+ Run around spits 20 m * The wall and conglomerate rock, shares the same lower-off as Egeo

 

Sector Ghost Kitchen
Right of Delta:
6b+ Kalyminette 40 m ** Slab and wall

 

Sector Gray Zone
6a Stars on stage 25 m *** Slab and red wall
5a Comicland 15 m ** Slab and big pockets
6b Kakoyannis 35 m *** Wall and corners; the route starts together with Comicland and then goes left
6c Mercouri 30 m ** Wall and overhang; the route starts together with Comicland and keeps going above the lower-off
6c Kazantzakis 30 m ** Wall and overhang

 

Right of Rock Cleaner:
5c+ Struts for heroes 20 m *** Slab and pockets
6b+ Struts for heroes extension 30 m ** Wall and overhang
6b Charopalévi 20 m ** Wall and pockets
6c Charopalévi extension 40 m *** Wall, pockets, cracks and overhang
6a+ Best connections 20 m *** Wall and pockets
6c Best connections extension 40 m *** Wall, pockets, cracks and overhang
6c+ Voutimata 40 m *** Wall, pockets, cracks and overhang
7a+ No laugh, no fall 40 m * Steep wall; very, very sharp!

 

Sector Arginonta
Right of Bloodsport:
6a+ Bouboulina 20 m *** Wall, pockets, right of the cave
6b Bouboulina extension 25 m *** Wall with short crux

 

Right of Pornokini:
6b Kosmas 30 m *** Wall and pockets, famous pastry shop

 

Right of Asche:
6a+ Kel Karma 20 m *** Wall

 

Right of Albi bak:
7a Code quantum 20 m ** Wall, big tufa and pockets

 

Sector Dolphin Bay
3 new routes on the small wall 20 m right of Agelos:
4c+ Easyland 10 m ** Slab and big pockets
5b Bang-bang 14 m ** Slab and big pockets; don’t miss Easter on Kaly!
5c+ For VIP 12 m *** Wall and pockets with a short crux

 

Sector North Cape
Right of Hantsch:
6b+ Seferis 40 m *** Wall/overhang !First bolts are not in place !
6b+ Megastore 40 m *** Steep slab Crux at the start, then long 6a

 

Right of Scanner:
7b Et la cloche sonne 3x 25 m ** Roof with short crux, then wall

 

Sector Olympic Wall
6b Candela 20 m ** Red wall on the left
6c Beta bloc 25 m ** Right of the black crag

 

Right of Défense d’y voir:
6b Alpha 25 m ** Wall; start right of Défense, cross it, then go left
6b+ Kalynette 27 m ** Wall; same lower-off as La bite

 

Right of Ch’tis:
6c Saphir 31 m *** Wall

 

Right of Laetyan:
6c Crack 25 m ** Tufas

 

Right of Rêve de Femme:
6b Folly 20 m ** Tufas
6c Pingu 20 m ** Overhang and pockets
7a+ Säule 30 m ** Tufas
6c Kalygula 20 m *** Overhang
7b+ Blue Magic 35 m *** Cross the overhang with tufas and pockets

 

Sector Kalydna
Right of the multi-pitch route with no name:
6b+ Mami au grigri 30 m ** Steep slab

 

The following routes are right of the big cave and the new routes of Simon Montmory; follow the marks and the fixed ropes:
7b Life Style 35 m *** Overhang
6c Kaly câlins 25 m *** Short overhang
6c Mamy Nova 20 m *** Overhang with big pockets
7a+ Spicy 25 m ** Overhang, short crux
6b Dart 35 m ** Wall

 

A very-very warm thanks for the great help to:

Stefanos & Anna-Maria Gerakios (rooms/scooters), Kantouni/Kalymnos;
Glaros snack bar, Massouri/Kalymnos, Steve and Sue;
Stelios & Maria Restaurant, Massouri/Kalymnos;
Climbers’ Nest sports shop, Armeos/Kalymnos, Birgit Möller;
Wild Sports shop, Massouri/Kalymnos, Sophia Lagoudi;
Mammut Equipment, Switzerland, Marc Huber & Albert Wenk;
Municipal Tourist Organisation of Kalymnos, George Hatzismalis and the Mayor George Roussos.

 

Information
Claude Remy, CH – 1864 Vers-l’Eglise, Switzerland

This entry was posted on Sunday, April 11th, 2010 at 22:36 and is filed under Kalymnos news, New Sectors. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can skip to the end and leave a response. Pinging is currently not allowed.


One Response to “50 new routes on Kalymnos by Claude & Yves Remy”

  1. Pascal says:

    Routes are well-pocketed AFTER their work, because they drill holds!!!
    I thought there was a chart about opening new climbs… If not respected, no use of a chart!

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