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Rock climbing in Kalymnos, Greece

57 New Routes by the Remy Brothers and Boris Girardin


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Yet another humorous snapshot on the beach at Kantouni. From left: Claude Remy, Boris Girardin and Yves Remy. Photo: Claude Remy

 

In April 2009 the well-known brothers Claude and Yves Remy, together with their other brother Boris Girardin, showed up for their annual Kalymnos rendez-vous. They used nearly 600 bolts to equip 57 new routes (graded 5b – 7c) in 12 different sectors, with heights up to 40 meters. Most long and difficult routes were opened from the bottom, while all others were opened by abseil from the top. The easier routes are very well-protected, allowing climbers at that level (e.g. 5a) to climb safely.

 

 

 

 

 

NOTES

 

  • -Most of the big, long, hard routes have been opened from the bottom; the others from the top.
  •  

  • -Some routes need traffic to be clean or to confirm grade and quality (stars).
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  • -The easier routes are usually very well-protected.
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  • -For routes longer than 35m, you will need more than 12 quickdraws (QD)
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  • -Routes are from left to right.
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  • -Extension = Ext.
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Listed below are the new routes, with comments and descriptions by the Remy brothers.

 

SECTOR STYX

Left of the sector there is an obvious red corner

6a+ String secret ** 20 m follow the red corner

6c Killbit ** 20 m overhang/tufas, upper part and lower-off same as String secret

Right of Killbit there are 2 recent routes with no name (left is 6b+, right is 6b), then the next 2 are:

6a+ Golden top *** 25 m wall with good holds, sharp rock

6b+ Litlost *** 25 m wall/overhang with holds, very sharp rock

Right of Stachet (between Stachet and Deal)

6a+/b Bunker *** 25 m wall/slab/overhang with holds, sharp rock

Right of Deal (between Deal and Nissim)

6c Team no werk *** 31 m wall with holds, very sharp rock, lower-off the same as Deal

Right of Nissim: 2 new routes:

6b+ Boleskine house *** 28 m wall with holds, very sharp rock

7a Boleskine Ext *** 36 m overhang/tufas

6b Zolotas *** 28 m wall with holds, very sharp rock

7a Zolotas Ext *** 36 m overhang with holds, same lower-off as Boleskine

Yves Remy opens a route from the bottom with a cliffhanger at Arginonta sector. Photo: Claude Remy

 

SECTOR ARGINONTA

Right of Wild sex (between Wild sex and Capt Arvithis)

6b Bôrhok **** 25 m very well protected and homogeneous

Right of Capt Arvithis (between Capt Arvithis and Anna-Maria)

6c+ Barba Yorghos *** 25 m wall, overhang, roof, tufas…

Right of Anna-Maria (between Anna-Maria and No sleep ’til Hammersmith)

7b Katergo * 25 m wall and tufas

7b Motörhead ** 25 m overhang/ tufas, crux at the start, same lower-off as No sleep

Right of Asche zu Asche (between Asche and And now for something)

6a+/b Avri *** 15 m red wall and big holds

Right of Climate change (between Climate and Fire wall)

7a+ Albi bak *** 20 m wall/corner, climb the roof from the right, very sharp rock

7a Red sea secrets *** 25 m tufas, wall with holds

Right of Fire wall

7a Hard primal ** 30 m wall/roof with a f…g loooonnng move (too long?)

 

SECTOR ROCKLAND

Right of Wasp (between Wasp and the Acces)

5a Trudi *** 20 m slab with plenty great good holds

Right of GR 69 (between GR 69 and Shantaram)

6b+ The book of Olga ** 25 m wall/overhang/slab, same LOWER-OFF as Shantaram

Right of Class heroes (between Class heroes and Birgit)

6c+ Sex made me stupid ** 25 m wall, cross Birgit at the roof then same LOWER-OFF as Birgit

7a+ Howdini ** 30 m wall/roof, start by Birgit then go right

Right of Fahmîdî (between Fahmîdî and Lefteris)

7b+ Labor vincit ** 20 m wall/overhang, very sharp rock

Right of Skif the rock (between Skif the rock and El Bulli)

7b+ Mikri gata ** 20 m wall/overhang, very sharp rock

7b Kee man ** 20 m wall, very sharp rock, same LOWER-OFF as El Bulli

Right of Koukourouznick and below the big cave are the next 3 new routes:

6b Ferran Adrià ** 25 m wall/slab, B with Beatings

6a Beatings will continue ** 25 m wall/slab, 6a exit left, 5c exit right

5b Until morale improves *** 25 m wall/slab

 

SECTOR DOLPHIN BAY

Right of Siga-Siga (between Siga-Siga and Dimitra)

6b Baklava maniac *** 20 m wall/roof with “soft” holds and little pockets

Right of Dimitra are the next 6 new routes:

6a+ Trokrakhan **** 20 m wall/roof with “soft” holds and little pockets

5c+ Under Wisteria lane *** 20 m wall/roof with nice big “soft” holds

5c+ Blind test ** 20 m wall/roof with nice big “soft” holds

5c+ Controlling crew ** 20 m wall/overhang with nice big “soft” holds

6a Kiss my… axe *** 20 m wall/overhang with good “soft” holds

5b+ Agelos ** 20 m surprise, for this wall you need… technique

 

SECTOR SPARTACUS

Right of Spasspartout (between Spasspartout and Problème mineur): a veeerrrry long route!

7b+ Yanap *** 30 m lower part: wall, lower-off with Spasspartout

7c Yanap Ext *** 50 m upper part: overhang/tufas, 20 QD

 

SECTOR STANKILL

Right of Justice is its own reward, between the 2 new routes there is an obvious corner with old gear

6b+ Perskindol ** 30 m wall

6c+ Aypa ** 30 m red wall/overhang

 

SECTOR IVORY TOWER

Right of Happiness (between Happiness and Sidewinder)

6a+ Bloc volant ** 20 m steep slab, diagonal up on the left

Right of Craic (on the big slab between Craic and Dream line are the 3 new routes)

5a Poker face ** 20 m slab

5b Arthur ** 20 m slab

5b Deletime ** 20 m slab

 

SECTOR KALYDNA

Right of Fuga da Guy (between Fuga da Guy and “No name” are the 6 new routes)

6b Random ** 40 m big holds on the pillar, 16 QD

7b Hype *** 32 m wall/overhang and holds, start by Random

6b Spark ** 30 m wall with good holds

7a Hot fuel ** 30 m wall with small holds, same LOWER-OFF as Spark

6b+ Blevita ** 20 m slab/wall

6a Avra *** 20 m slab/wall

Right of No name (between No name and Mitra are the 2 new routes)

6b Miss Latex *** 30 m wall

7a Bigboo *** 30 m overhang with holds

 

SECTOR IANNIS

On the big wall right of Tufa king pumped are the next 5 new routes

6c+ Adolf in the bay *** 20 m overhang with holds

7b Vepikoko *** 30 m wall with small ledges

7a Sens unique *** 40 m wall with small ledges, 15 QD

6c Zagori *** 40 m wall, 14 QD

6b Kalyne ** 30 m wall

 

SECTOR POETS

Right of Solomos (between Solomos and O’ brothers)

6c+ Reins beaux *** 35 m wall and small holds

 

SECTOR ZEUS

Right of Isabel (the 3 next new routes are between Isabel and Pipe cleaner)

7a Blonde, James Blonde *** 25 m wall/overhang with holds

7c Blonde *** 35 m Ext of James Blonde, overhang with little pockets

6b La mouette généreuse *** 20 m wall with holds

6b+ Kalyfornication *** 25 m wall with holds and tufas

 

SECTOR PROPHET ELIAS

The 2 new routes are left of Mironis

7a The rock whisperer *** 25 m wall with small holds, sharp rock

6b Time is right ** 20 m wall with holds

7a Time is right Ext * 31 m wall, expo, upper part and LOWER-OFF same as Mironis

The three "brothers" chilling out in Massouri. Photo: Claude Remy

Big and very warm thanks for the great help to:

Stefanos & Anna-Maria Gerakios (rooms/scooters), Kantouni/Kalymnos;

Glaros Snack Bar, Massouri/Kalymnos, Steve and Sue;

Stelios & Maria Restaurant, Massouri/Kalymnos;

Climbers’ nest sports shop, Armeos/Kalymnos, Birgit Möller;

Wild Sports shop, Massouri/Kalymnos, Sophia Lagoudi;

Rockland Equipment, Athens, “Big Boss” Lefteris;

Mammut Equipment, Switzerland, Marc Huber & Albert Wenk;

Municipal Tourist Organisation of Kalymnos, Katerina Klonari & George Hatzismalis.

 

For more information, please email Claude Remy.

This entry was posted on Thursday, February 11th, 2010 at 17:53 and is filed under Kalymnos news, New Sectors. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can skip to the end and leave a response. Pinging is currently not allowed.


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