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Rock climbing in Kalymnos, Greece

Attention climbers! Bad bolts & routes to avoid


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*Updated Jan 8th* To all climbers: please read this entire post for a list of routes with potentially bad bolts. A batch of defective bolts sold between June 2010 – January 2011 by manufacturer Rockland has been recalled, but unfortunately at the time of the recall several of these bolts had already been used to equip new routes on Kalymnos. Please note that the routes with potentially defective bolts are recent, so they are not in the guidebook. When we found out about the bad bolts we contacted all equippers (that we know of) who bolted routes in the past year to try and locate those with Rockland bolts, but we haven’t been able to track down all the routes yet.

 

 

Here’s a list of routes where defective Rockland bolts may have been used. Chances are that most of these routes are safe, but until we are able to check and/or replace ALL bad bolts we strongly suggest you do NOT climb them. We will update the list as needed, so please keep checking back.

 

Routes

 

SECTOR STYX
Circus 7a+, 17 bolts, 35 m,
Ingo 6b, 14 bolts, 25 m
No Exit 6a+, 15 bolts, 45 m
Metro 6a+, 17 bolts, 47 m

 

SECTOR GREAT CANYON (new sector between Arhi Right and Sea Breeze Left)
Melomakaronas 6c 35 m
Mystic Land 7a 35 m
Plastic Surgery Disaster 7b 32 m
Art in the Air, 7a 34 m
Vromikos 6c, 33 m
Boulderhoelle 6b+, 33 m
Xazouli 6b, 32 m
Xazouli Ext 6c, 38 m
Me Ponaï 6c, 32 m,
Rock Out 6c, 20 m
Loubis’s Angels 6b
Brave a New World 5c+, 16 QD
Divine Comedie 7a,
Sex Pistols 7a
Tzatziki kai Sokolate 7b
Beta Lambda 7b+

 

SECTOR GREY ZONE (left of Pocket Wall)
Fasolada 6a slab
— Bolts OK
In Dubio 6a
— Bolts OK
Falakro 5b+
— Bolts OK
Saphirniac 6c 38 m
Utopia 6a, 20 m.
— Bolts OK
Utopia Ext 6c, 36 m

— Bolts OK

 

SECTOR ARGINONTA
Bolt-Obsession 4c
— Bolts OK
BB 5a, 20 m
— Bolts OK
Takis rare 4a
— Bolts OK
No Blabla Do It 4b
— Bolts OK
Mammut Step 4c
— Bolts OK
Kolhinet Kafhouille 7a Extension of Avri — Bolts OK

 

SECTOR BIG SHADOW
Ratten 7a, 10 bolts, 20 m
Metralos 6a+, 12 bolts, 30 m — Bolts OK
Cacou 6a+, 10 bolts, 25 m — Bolts OK
Vicking 6a, 12 bolts, 25 m — Bolts OK
Directos 6b, 13 bolts, 30 m
Grim 6b, 13 bolts, 30 m — Bolts OK
Grim Ext 6c+, 20 bolts, 50 m — Bolts OK
Cosi 7a+, 15 bolts, 30 m
Taupe the Rop, 7b, 13 bolts, 28 m

 

SECTOR NORTH CAPE
Reize 7a, 14 bolts, 25 m
Leone 6a+, 14 bolts, 30 m

 

Please note that the hangers by Rockland are safe; the problem is with the bolts. In some cases hangers from other companies are combined with Rockland (2010-11) bolts or vice-versa.

 

We apologize to the equippers for temporarily “blacklisting” their routes. This has nothing to do with the beauty of the route or their equipping skills, but strictly with the bad quality of the bolts. There are plenty of other routes to climb on Kalymnos in the meantime and safety should always, always come first.

 

This entry was posted on Thursday, November 17th, 2011 at 23:33 and is filed under Kalymnos news. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can skip to the end and leave a response. Pinging is currently not allowed.


15 Responses to “Attention climbers! Bad bolts & routes to avoid”

  1. Lee Cujes says:

    I might be wrong, but I believe these bolts may also be used on the newer, long, easy routes on lower Spartan Wall such as Yo-Yo, Insomnia and nearby routes.

  2. Francis Kelsey says:

    Hi there,
    Thanks for this information. Being such a popular place, if possible I would like to try and help. I will be there next week and can possibly bring some bolts/hangers.
    Is the problem essentially with the bolt itself or both hanger and bolt?
    Thanks and looking forward to climbing in Greece!

  3. Dave Reeve says:

    I agree with Lee. The lower Spartan routes had bolts looking very much like that in the photo. I was wondering if there was a “mixed metal” problem with the make up of the bolt components.

  4. Aris says:

    @Lee and Dave, i just spoken to Urs Odermatt the equipper of these routes at Spartan Wall. For all of them he has used Raumer bolts which have not problems. Perhaps it is surface oxidisation which happens sometimes in areas near the sea but the bolt is strong.

    @Francis, hi, thank you for offering to help. I will be there next week too, we can contact then. The problem with Rockland bolts is just the bolts (bad quality steel). The hangers are OK.

  5. Raphael says:

    When we climbed the lower grade routes mentioned in Arginonta back in September we were puzzled by the rusty appearance of some of the bolts there. But as those routes had only just be opened in Spring we thought that this would be simply surface oxidisation.

    Thanks everyone for doing such a great job in listing this and looking for ways to fix the routes affected. One of those many little things that makes climbing in Kalymnos such a great experience! Keep the good work up.

    And as to those easier Arginonta climbs: It would be great to see them fixed. We enjoyed them a lot. We were under the impression that they offered an interesting and constant climbing experience despite their 4x grade. Not just “low end fillers”.

  6. Francis Kelsey says:

    HI again Aris and others,
    I will bring along a fair amount of bolts but would love some help and perhaps the use of a drill. I arrive on the 14 and stay for 10 days.
    easiest contact for me is francis(at)nosiesta(dot)net

  7. Andy Hedgecock says:

    Hi Aris,

    climbed the routes at at Sector Arginonta and put up a new 4c between Takis and No Blaba called Rebecca 20m. I used 10mm x 90mm inox marine grade stainless steel spitbolts and Fixe 20kn Hangers, together with a Fixe lower off from Steve at the Glaros.
    Back sometime in April/May so will hopefully catch up with you then.
    noticed the rust on a few of the bolts just thought it was oxidisation as Raph states above, excellent routes though so hope the crag can be sorted.

  8. Thomas J says:

    the bolts at lower spartan wall in my memory at least D I D have rockland hangers … so a second enquiry (did urs actively mix rockland hangers with other bolts?) would be fine in my opinion.

  9. om says:

    theres a few dodgy ones on cave as well, right hand side, apparently new routes but bolts in v bad condition

  10. Chris Craggs says:

    I spotted the suspect bolts (easy when you know what to look for) on Galy galy (Belgian Chocolates). Pity it looked like a nice route.

  11. shark says:

    Howdy

    On the subject of bad bolts I thought a couple of routes and their belays are over-due for re-bolting at Panorama in particular Super Carpe Diem and Joggel and Toggle extension which might best be re-equipped with 4 belays as it has acquired a logical lower-off (a single bolt with 2 mailons) before the desperate boulder problem which is currently very scary. Same applies for some of the ones on Cigarello.

    Cheers, Simon

  12. Larissa Phillips says:

    Por Una Sociedad con Mujeres Satisfechas in Sikati Cave – the 12th bolt is black with rust and the quicklink is half worn through. I bailed early because I didn’t want to risk taking a fall on it. My partner followed on TR and the 4th bolt ripped out of the wall when she fell. A few others might need to be replaced as well. Also, there is a goat stuck down there.

  13. Chris Craggs says:

    I did the routes between Bolt Obsession and Mammut Step on Sector Holiday today (nice new easy Sector btw) and the bolts look fine. You can remove them from the black-list I think.

    Chris

  14. Chris Craggs says:

    Also the new routes at left and right sides of Pocket Wall, Fasolada, In Dubio, Falakro and Utopia, all bolts good.

    Chris

  15. Admin says:

    Thanks Chris, changes noted.

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