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Kalymnos ‘Bolting Event’ and list of new & rebolted routes


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There was plenty of drilling activity on Kalymnos this fall. The Bolting Event announced a year ago brought several equippers to the island in late October / early November, though a few stayed much longer than the two weeks of the event and continued to bolt and rebolt. The equippers set new routes and rebolted existing ones at assorted sectors around the island including North Cape, Styx, Palionissos Bay, Arginonta, Je t’Aime, among others, but they also created a new sector, Elephant Slide, near the col to Palionissos, and a new subsector at Saint Photis crag. All in all, more than 75 new routes were set and over 40 existing routes were rebolted. Routes are listed at the end of this post (in no particular order). Bolts for most new routes were provided by Jürgen Rohrmann and Fertighaus Sachsenheim. Bolts used in rebolting were provided by Aris Theodoropoulos / Climb Kalymnos. Kalymnos Adventure Center facilitated the distribution of bolts.

 

The following equippers participated in the Bolting Event: the Sachsenheimer Fertighaus BoltingTeam (Jürgen Rohrmann, Matthias Rauer, Andréas Schall, Kurt Bartetzko, and Charles Brendel); Gunter Hommel; Joachim Friedrich; Hans Wenninger; Dietrich Kaiser; Falk Heinicke; Angie Hafner; Theo Hoch; Siggi Mühlbacher; Luca Salsotto; André Langenbach; Marco Quaglia. Photos are by Dave Sobocan.

 

New Routes

 

Sector: Arginonta
• Subsector Holiday
-Studio Fatolitis 6a 20 m Jürgen Rohrmann

• Subsector Rock Round
-Study 7b/7b+ 22 m Jochen Friedrich, Gunter Hommel

 

Sector: Arhi (far right, to the left of the new multipitch route ‘Regensburg’)
-Tropfen 5a 25m Jochen Friedrich, Gunter Hommel

 

Sector: Cave (left of)
-Rifugio Bozano 7b/7b+ Luca Salsotto, Marco Quaglia
-BOH ? Luca Salsotto, Marco Quaglia
-Buongiorno 6c Luca Salsotto, Marco Quaglia

 

Sector: Elephant Slide
[A new sector near the pass to Palionisos. Approach: From the parking lot to sector Profitis Andreas you can see the cliff 500m to the east. Follow a goat path on the same level as the parking to a hidden tree (400m). After that, ascend to the rock. Lots of shade and good for beginners.]
-Hip 6a 17 m Jochen Friedrich, Gunter Hommel
-Backside 5c 22 m Jochen Friedrich, Gunter Hommel
-Elephant Slide 4a 23m Jochen Friedrich, Gunter Hommel
-Mamut 4c 23m Jochen Friedrich, Gunter Hommel
-Jumbo 5a 15m Jochen Friedrich, Gunter Hommel
-Trunk 5b 13m Jochen Friedrich, Gunter Hommel
-Safari 5b 13m Jochen Friedrich, Gunter Hommel
-Thick Skin 5a 14m Jochen Friedrich, Gunter Hommel
-Dryness 4c 15m Jochen Friedrich, Gunter Hommel
-Stubborn 4c 21m Jochen Friedrich, Gunter Hommel
-Wedel Ear 6b 20m Jochen Friedrich, Gunter Hommel
-Hip 6a 20m Jochen Friedrich, Gunter Hommel
-Backside 5c 22m Jochen Friedrich, Gunter Hommel
-Trumpet 5a 20m Jochen Friedrich, Gunter Hommel
-Push Tooth 4c 20m Jochen Friedrich, Gunter Hommel
-Ivory 4a 21m Jochen Friedrich, Gunter Hommel

 

Sector: Gerakios
-Needle 6a+ 26m Jochen Friedrich, Florian Friedrich
-Open Book 6a+ 28m Jochen Friedrich, Gunter Hommel

 

Sector: Hotel California
-Eagle 5b 24m Jochen Friedrich, Gunter Hommel

 

Sector: Je t` Aime
[Equippers also marked access to the sector and secured with rope]
-Amour 5c 21 m Jochen Friedrich, Gunter Hommel
-Ma Cher 6a+ 20 m Jochen Friedrich, Gunter Hommel
-Lanterne 6b+ 24m Jochen Friedrich, Gunter Hommel
-Amant 6b 21 m Jochen Friedrich, Gunter Hommel
-Rue 6b/6b+ 27 m Jochen Friedrich, Gunter Hommel
-Petit 4b 30m Jochen Friedrich, Gunter Hommel
-Fritz 6a 25m Jochen Friedrich, Gunter Hommel, Ute Friedrich
-Voila 6c 22m Jochen Friedrich, Gunter Hommel
-Affaire 5a 30m Jochen Friedrich, Gunter Hommel
-Sinistre 5b 25m Jochen Friedrich, Gunter Hommel

 

Sector: North Cape
-Orca 7b+ 20m Jochen Friedrich
-Prego 6b+ 35m Luca Salsotto
-Partiro’ 7b 25m Luca Salsotto

 

• Subsector Apollo
-Dad 4c 20m Jochen Friedrich
-Family 5a 22m Jochen Friedrich, Gunter Hommel
-Ugly 6b 15m Jochen Friedrich, Gunter Hommel
-Pig 5a 18m Jochen Friedrich, Gunter Hommel

 

Sector: Palionissos Bay
• Subsector Paradise Beach
-Evagelia 6a 20 m Hans Weninger, Dietrich Kaiser
-Elena 6a 20 m Hans Weninger, Dietrich Kaiser
-Startschuss 6a 20 m Franz Seidenschwarz, Hans Wenninger, Angie Hafner
-Hope 6a 30 m Theo Hoch, Siggi Mühlbacher
-Ilias 6b+ 27 m Siggi Mühlbacher, Theo Hoch
-Sorry 6a+ 25 m Hans Wenninger, Dietrich Kaiser
-Pockets 6a+ 25 m Hans Wenninger, Dietrich Kaiser

 

Sector: Profitis Andreas
-Pame Roger Ext 6c 40m Luca Salsotto
-Rien dans la Tete 7a+ 20m Luca Salsotto, André Langenbach

 

Sector: Saint Photis
• Cave upper wall
-Speckknödel 5b 20 m Andréas Schall
-Iki Kampai 6b+ 24 m Jürgen Rohrmann

• New subsector View of Chapel Saint Photis
-Martin 5c 20 m Kurt Bartetzko
-David 6a+ 25 m Kurt Bartetzko
-Miss Experience 6a+ 20 m Andréas Schall
-Paul + Paula 6b 22 m Andréas Schall
-Supernicki 6a 20 m Andréas Schall
-Mareike 6a+ 27 m Matthias Rauer
-Mareike Extension 7b 10 m Matthias Rauer
-Elisabeth 6a 22 m Mathias Rauer
-Jux 5c 22 m Matthias Rauer
-Pik 6b+ 22 m Kurt Bartetzko + Matthias Rauer
-Faulpelze 6a+ 22 m Jürgen Rohrmann
-B. B. 6b+ 38 m Kurt Bartetzko

 

Sector: Secret Garden
-Hyper 6c+ 15m Luca Salsotto
-Extra 6c+ 18m Luca Salsotto

 

Sector: Styx
• Subsector Olive
-Charlys Cat 6a+ 25 m Charles Brendel
-Meckerfritze 6b 25 m Jürgen Rohrmann
-SFH 6b+ 26 m Jürgen Rohrmann
-Kalite’ 6c+ 32 m Luca Salsotto, Marco Quaglia, André Langenbach
-Aquila 6b+ 33 m Luca Salsotto, Marco Quaglia, André Langenbach
-Babele 6c+ 34 m Luca Salsotto, Marco Quaglia, André Langenbach

 

Sector: The Beach
-Sea Urchin 6a 20m Jochen Friedrich, Gunter Hommel, Ute Friedrich, Antje Lehmann
-Sailor 6a 23m Jochen Friedrich, Gunter Hommel
-Starfish 5a 22m Jochen Friedrich, Gunter Hommel

 

Rebolted Routes

 

Sector: Arginonta
• Subsector Fire Wall
-Klausi

• Subsector Amphitheatre
-Hot Shot
-Sexy

 

Sector: Cave
-Mathitis
-Sto Kalo

 

Sector: Gerakios
-Stefanos
-Zio Gio

 

Sector: North Cape
-No fly zone
-Nordic Walking (first bolt added; also extended, new lower-off, new hangers)
-Stachelschwein (first bolt added)
-North Lights (2 bolts added; new lower-off) Luca Salsotto, André Langenbach
-Beb (rebolted; new lower-off) Luca Salsotto
-Galup (rebolted; new lower-off; extended) Luca Salsotto
-Grazie (one bolt at start) Luca Salsotto
-Scanner (one bolt at start) Luca Salsotto
-Leone (rebolted; new lower-off; old bad Rockland bolts) Luca Salsotto
-Polar Bear (new lower-off) Luca Salsotto
-French Connection (bolt at top)
-Ice Age (bolt at start; new lower off) Luca Salsotto, André Langenbach
-Hawk (new lower-off) Luca Salsotto, André Langenbach
-Elk (new lower-off; new hangers; cleaned) Luca Salsotto, André Langenbach
-Polar Star (one bolt; new lower-off; new hangers) Luca Salsotto, André Langenbach
-To Proto Moro Mou (new lower-off) Carl Dawson, Ruth Dawson
-Sposi (rebolted; new lower-off; lower-off repositioned) Carl Dawson, Ruth Dawson

 

• Subsector Appolo
-Mum
-Sister
-Brother
-Mouse

 

• Subsector Peter
-Peterle
-Schwarzer Peter
-Peter Pan
-Peter und der Wolf

 

Sector: Ocean Dream
-Ocean Dream
-Marina
-Zeus

 

Sector: Palionissos Bay
• Subsector Paradise Beach
-Kalidonis

 

Sector: Sea Breeze
-EOS

 

Sector: Secret Garden
-Ymer (new lower-off) Luca Salsotto
-Luca e Betty (hangers removed until flake at the start is removed) Luca Salsotto

 

Sector: Styx
• Subsector Olive
-Olivetree
-Oil
-Stamina

 








This entry was posted on Monday, December 16th, 2013 at 12:25 and is filed under Kalymnos news, New Sectors. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can skip to the end and leave a response. Pinging is currently not allowed.


3 Responses to “Kalymnos ‘Bolting Event’ and list of new & rebolted routes”

  1. Chris Craggs says:

    Great effort guys, more routes to come back for – as ever!

    Chris

  2. Lee Cujes says:

    Thanks in particular for the rebolting efforts.

  3. Cristina says:

    Wow! How exciting! I haven’t been to Kalymnos since 2009. I really can’t wait to get back and climb in this perfect little paradise again. I miss the fun scooter rides to the crag, the beautiful climbs over looking the Mediterranean and relaxing beach time to end off the day with some slacklining. :) Those were some good times!!

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