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Rock climbing in Kalymnos, Greece

Prophitis Andreas, a major new crag on Kalymnos


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One of the latest additions to Kalymnos climbing, sector Prophitis Andreas has everything it takes to become one of the major climbing crags of Kalymnos. It is a large area filled with numerous long lines, very solid rock, ample variety in climbing styles, and a stunning location (at the top of the road leading to Palionisos) which gives it a bird’s eye view of the sea, the islet of Calavros and a less “commonplace” view of Telendos from the north. There are 40 routes at Prophitis Andreas already, and there is potential for many more.

 

 

Prophitis Andreas was discovered a couple of years back by André Langenbach. Equipping of the routes began in November 2012 by André himself with Bruno Fara, Roger Runacher and Luca Salsotto. Drilling continued more intensively in spring 2013, this time with Claude Idoux joining the team and with additional assistance by Bettina Cantamessa/Salsotto and Renée Guerin/Fara. All these climbers spend massive amounts of time on the island -from a few months to year round- and most have invested in homes on the island; the equipping of routes at Prophitis Andreas continues, and there is still enough rock left to safely assume it will become one of the biggest crags on Kalymnos.

 

 

 

SECTOR PROPHITIS ANDREAS [click here for printable version]

 

Climbing: Varied climbing with some fantastic compact slabs up to 30-40m high in the middle of the crag. Routes are well-bolted and “user-friendly”, albeit somewhat sharp at the moment, but they are sure to improve over time. In our opinion, most routes are at least 2*.

 

Gear: Bring an 80m rope and 21 quickdraws for maximum enjoyment. (However, you can climb several routes with just a 70m rope and 16 quickdraws.) Don’t forget the KNOT at the end of your rope!

 

André Langenbach on the wonderful “Thavmasia” 5c+

Kids: Good. The approach is fairly easy and the terrain beneath the cliffs is relatively safe.

 

Conditions: Climbing at Prophitis Andreas is best in the spring, fall and winter, as the cliffs stay relatively dry even after heavy rain. If you are an early bird, summer climbing is possible on days with a soft northerly breeze (there’s shade until noon.) Avoid very windy days.

 

Shade: In the morning until about 12.00.

 

Exposure: SW

 

 

Approach: From Masouri, drive towards Emporios. After you pass the village of Skalia, turn right towards Palionisos. At the top of the road there is a chapel with a large cross. Across the road from the chapel, on your right-hand side, there is a sign to the crag and a parking area. Park there (37.04348, 26.952927). Follow the trail marked in red eastwards. The trail passes to the left of the distinctive ridge overlooking Palionisos and the island of Leros then it goes up to the col, where an incredible southwesterly view of Telendos unfolds. Walking time: 20 min.

 

 

 

Luca Salsotto attempting “Gruviera” 8a?


ROUTES (from left to right)

 

1. NO CREDIT: 5a (André Langenbach) – 18m – 03/2013
2. CEPASIDUR: 6b+ (André langenbach) – 18m – 03/2013
3. PAX ALSACIANA: 7b+ (André langenbach) – 15m – 03/2013
4. KALIDONIS: ? (André langenbach) – 18m — 09/2013
5. CAPOGIRO: ? (Luca Salsotto) – 20m (non réalisée) – 11/2012
6. GRUVIERA: 8a? (Luca Salsotto) – 25m – 11/2012
7. TO TAKSIDI: 7c (Luca Salsotto) – 20m – 11/2012
8. TORCICOLLO: 7c+? (Luca Salsotto) – 27m – 11/2012
9. NEMO PROPHETA IN PATRIA: 7b (Luca Salsotto) – 30m – 10/2012
10. SENZA SOSTA: 7b (Luca Salsotto) – 30m – 10/2012
11. CALLIOPI: 7a+ (Luca Salsotto) – 30m – 10/2012
12. HELLENI: 7a+ (André Langenbach) – 30m – 10/2012
13. PROPHET ANDREAS: 7a (A. Langenbach/R. Runacher) – 32m – 10/2012
14. LE TALENT: 6c+ (Luca Salsotto) – 38m – 10/2012
15. PAME ROGER: 6b+ (Roger Runacher) – 28m – 10/2012

Silvia Bertotto on “Prophet Andreas” 7a

16. PAME ROGER extension: 6c (Luca Salsotto) – 38m – 10/2013
17. PAME HILTI : 7a (A. Langenbach/R. Runacher) – 30m – 05/2013
18. BONJOUR VIEILLESSE: 6b+ (L. Salsotto/A.Langenbach) – 25m – 10/2012
19. DAMOCLES IS WATCHING YOU: 6a+ (Bruno Fara) – 37m – 10/2012 – 15 QDs
20. L’ARMEE DU PROPHETE: 6b (Bruno FARA) – 25m – 11/2012 – 12 QDs
21. L’ARMEE DU PROPHETE EXTENSION: 6b+ (B. Fara/L. Salsotto) – 37m – 11/2012 and 03/2013
22. THAVMASIA: 5c+ (Bruno Fara) – 25m – 10/2012 – 12 QDs
23. THE LORDS: 6a+ (Claude Idoux) – 38m – 02/2013
24. CIMA PICCOLA: 6a (Claude Idoux) – 38m – 02/2013
25. LE RETOUR DU STRATEGE: 6a (Bruno Fara) – 38m – 03/2013 – 18 QDs
26. TYCHE: 6a+ (Bruno Fara) – 38m – 03/2013 – 15 QDs
27. PHILOTIMIA : 6b (Bruno Fara) – 25m – 04/2013 – 10 QDs
28. RIEN DANS LA TETE : 7a (A. Langenbach) – 20m – 11/2013
29. TSOPANAKOS: 7b (A. Langenbach/R. Runacher) – 22m – 10/2012

Luca Salsotto working the drill

30. EPHEMERE ETERNITE 6c (Bruno Fara) – 36m – 04/2013 – 21 QDs. Bolting is very dense, so often when you clip your rope you can easily unclip the quickdraw below you. Pay attention when you strip the route through the chimney on your way down.
31. LE COMBAT DES CHEFS: 7a : (Claude Idoux) – 40m – 02/2013 – 20 QDs
32. SAVE THE FOREST: 6b (Luca Salsotto) – 38m – 10/2012
33. JUST BOLTED: 6a+ (Luca Salsotto) – 37m – 10/2012
34. POUR NOTRE AMI CHRISTIAN: 6a (A.Langenbach /L. Salsotto) – 35m – 10/2012
35. NO EXTENSION: 5b (Bruno Fara) – 35m – 04/2014 – 15 QDs
36. SERIAL DRILLER: 5c+ (Bruno Fara) – 35m – 04/2014 – 14 QDs
37. LAVRAKI : 5c+ (Bruno Fara) – 35m – 04/2014 – 14 QDs
38. YA DE LA POMME : 6a+ (André Langenbach) – 30 m – 10/2013
39. Y A AUTRE CHOSE ROGER : 6c (R. Runacher) – 28m – 4/2014 – 15 QDs
40. ROGER DE L’ILL ( 3 pitches ) : 6c+ 35m – 6b+ 40m – 5c+ 25m (R. Runacher/ L. Salsotto) – 90 m – 10/2013 (To descend, follow the red marks to the left.)

 

 

 

This entry was posted on Friday, June 20th, 2014 at 22:13 and is filed under Kalymnos news, New Sectors. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can skip to the end and leave a response. Pinging is currently not allowed.


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