Yet another multi-pitch route comes to join the popular Wings for Life and Wild Country on Telendos, the trademark small isle opposite the west coast of Kalymnos. Inspiration, 7a+ max (6c obligatory) 150m was equipped by Simon Montmory in April. We haven’t climbed the new route ourselves, so for your information we have included the route report by Simon himself, only slightly edited, after he and Tiia Porri climbed it in May. Here’s what he says about Inspiration: “It’s very nice rock, well-protected and steep from beginning to end. It will need more people to climb to clean it, but after some more climbers it will be excellent. […] Inspiration is close to an amazing arch surrounding the ground at more than 100 meters. The rock is excellent all along the route and the view is fantastic. It’s very well-equipped and you climb on steep rock from the beginning to the end!
Inspiration 7a+ max, 6c obligatory, 150m:
L1 6b+, L2 6c, L3 7a+ (a climb in the style of DNA!), L4 6b, L5 6b+
Conditions and materials: Avoid going on a damp day. The route is in the shade until 1.00 pm. 16 quickdraws, helmets necessary.
Approach: From the village of Telendos, take the path going to Princess Canyon. Turn right 10m after the second door, and follow the yellow marks to the bottom of the crag (45 min). The path is excellent and it’s also a very good walk if you are not a climber. It gives another view of the island.
To return to the village: When you reach the top of the wall, head right in the direction of Masouri (15min). At the top, turn on the right of it and walk down following the yellow marks (from here 30 min to the harbour)”.
For more info and photos about Inspiration, the new multi-pitch on Telendos, please click here. Thanks Simon!
3 Comments
i can agree with Simon.. You can’t expect from the equiper to clean the route perfectly.. I it the whole adventure that matters in a multipicth like this.. More trafic will make it cleaner sooner or later. too bad i didn’t know about this during my summer break in Kalymnos. Hope to try it next year.. It looks like a great experience
Hi ebrune, thanks for your comment.
Actually, this route is not to abseil, you have to go out of it by the top and to come back by foot.
The route is new, so you have to expect it to be still dirty, it’s normal on this style of route. I cleaned most of it but it’s impossible to do all of it myself! In this kind of route, like in Grande Grotta at the beginning, it takes time to be totally clean.
Concerning the yellow marks, I can try to put more.
For me, this route is really beautiful, the rock, the line, the amazing view, it would be a shame to give it up because it’s dirty for the moment.
Simon
we did until the 3rd pitch.
the rock is very bad at the 3rd pitch (a couple of stalactities came off) very very hard to abseil, very intricated footpath to arrive (few yellow marks).
I don’t see any reason to climb there!!!
bye
ebrune