Excellent, and needed all over the climbing world, but good to see Greece taking the lead.

I look forward to reading the English version as soon as possible.

I also think we should see here in this forum, all those equippers that have been approved to bolt.

Can we assume that some people will be exempt? Personally I feel that everyone, regardless of past experience should be willingly seen to be applying through this initiative, to lead by example.

I hope that this succeeds, is policed properly and leads to a sustainable continuing programme of rebolting and also to a good standardization of grading so visiting climbers can know that whoever has put up new routes, the grade will be either for an onsight or a red point ascent. This I think would be fairly useful and could easily be encouraged via this council and forum, after all, this is kalymnos.

Again, a very good move and I look forward to seeing it enforced in other up and coming areas throughout Greece soon.

Because some people asking about rebolting.

Some info on the history and the guidelines for rebolting.

More info here: https://climbkalymnos.com/climbing/#maintenance

Route maintenance / rebolting

From 2000 to 2010, Kalymnos was one of the few climbing areas where routes were checked and rebolted regularly by a professional mountain guide. The foundations for a well-organised climbing venue were set early on, in 1999-2000, when Greek mountain guide Aris Theodoropoulos collaborated with the Municipality of Kalymnos, Thomas Michailides and other Greek climbers to set the standards for equipping routes on Kalymnos (closely placed stainless steel bolts and 2-bolt clipable lower-offs). The single-bolt (!) lower-offs on the first 43 routes were replaced at that time. Between 2000-2010, approximately 100 routes were rebolted every one or two years with the financial support of the local municipality.

In November/December 2008, 175 routes were rebolted by Aris Theodoropoulos, George Kopalides and George Koutsoukis. Corroded bolts and lower-offs were checked and replaced on nearly every route in the most popular sectors (Odyssey, Arhi, Spartacus, Kasteli, Iliada), as well as on certain routes in Grande Grotta and Panorama sectors. Besides corrosion, a prominent problem were the excessively worn carabiners on lower-offs: some permanent carabiners on lower-offs were literally eaten away to half their original size! As a result, for the first time RAUMER lower-offs with double opposed carabiners were used for increased safety and longevity. Furthermore, at that time bolts began to be replaced primarily by RAUMER’S 12 mm HANG FIX stainless steel expansion bolts.

In November/December 2010, the Kalymnos municipality funded the rebolting of more than 100 routes. The main sectors targeted were Symplegades, Arhi Left, Ghost Kitchen and Galatiani.

Between 2010 and 2015 there was no support by the Municipality of Kalymnos for any rebolting or maintenance efforts. With the number of routes and crags on Kalymnos perpetually growing, any rebolting and route checking efforts during that time was done exclusively by a handful of volunteers. In 2015, another large-scale rebolting project was implemented, this time with funding from an EU grant. As part of the 2015 Municipal Rebolting Project on Kalymnos, nearly 300 routes were rebolted and 100 new routes were added. See here and here for a list of rebolted routes, new routes, and other information.

https://climbkalymnos.com/list-of-rebolted-routes-and-answers-to-other-frequently-asked-questions/

Since then, maintenance of routes in need is once again being done voluntarily. Proceeds from the sale of the Kalymnos guidebook are used every year to buy bolts, anchors, and other equipment; see below.

• Guidebook proceeds and giving back to Kalymnos

In previous years (until 2010), approximately 10% of proceeds from the sale of the Kalymnos Guidebook was donated to the Municipality of Kalymnos for the purchase of materials used in route maintenance.

Since 2010, a minimum of €5000 is put aside from guidebook proceeds every year to buy bolts, hangers, and lower-offs for the voluntary bolting and rebolting of routes on Kalymnos. The vast majority of the bolts is used to rebolt older routes in need of maintenance. A small percentage of these bolts is used to put up new lines.

The volunteers involved in rebolting routes on Kalymnos make every effort to check the overall condition of crags; but with so many routes, the feedback of other climbers is vital. Please help them prioritize which routes to rebolt by e-mailing us the name of the route, climbing sector, approximate number of bolts in need of replacement, and the date when you noticed any weakened anchors.

Interested in rebolting?

If you are an experienced route equipper and would like to give back to Kalymnos by doing some rebolting, please get in touch with us first (climb@climbkalymnos.com). The local municipality must concur; rebolting in Greece must be overseen by a certified Greek mountain guide according to the latest directive by the Hellenic Federation of Mountaineering and Climbing; and the hardware used must meet a strict set of specifications (at least 12mm; 316L or HCR expansion bolts, or glue-in 316L, HCR, or titanium bolts using epoxy resin; certified by a manufacturer of climbing equipment; NO HOMEMADE BOLTS). Improper rebolting by non-qualified climbers may result in legal action in the event of an accident.

Reply to Mike:

>>Why is this only published here in the depths of the forum? This should be on your home page as it’s BIG news, and published internationally!

As soon as possible, hopefully in next few weeks, we will translate the protocol in English and publish a full article. We do all this in a voluntary basis when we have some free time, so is not always possible immediately. Also we are working since months to completely redesign our site, so everything will be easier and more clear to find.

>>Why was this not published when it was first decided on in 2016?

Actually, it was discussed from the council of Kalymnos municipality since then but voted on 15 June 2018.

>>Do you plan on enforcing it throughout all of Greece?

Similar guidelines are valid from Greek Climbing Federation since 19 Nov 2016.

http://www.eooa.gr/wp-content/uploads/2016/11/2016-11-19-OdigiaDianoixisAnarrixitikonDiadromon_final.pdf

>>>I have not received a reply yet from my email to the committee. No rush, I had no plans to bolt as yet but as soon as it cools down a little I’m ready to go . Can you say how long this committee process is going to take?

I cannot say yet. The committee it is 3 people, and we are trying to figure out what works best.

>>>Will you be here in person to sit on the committee or will you oversee from home?

I usually spend about half of the year at kalymnos. When I am not on the island I can communicate by skype with the committee.

>>>You’ll note (if you read my email) that I didn’t specify where I wished to bolt. I have extensions and new lines in mind, as well as new small crags. I wouldn’t want anyone nipping in before me and stealing my lines…. Not sure anyone would willingly say where they wanted to bolt, unless of course they know already that they will be allowed.

Better to speak about this with all the members of the committee.

>>>Can you assure us of the actions that will be taken against people that bolt WITHOUT permission?

First the bolts will be taken off. Then it is up to the municipality what they will do, since it will now be against local laws.

Finally, I have to admit here that for the quality and safety of Kalymnos climbing it is very important to follow the guidelines of the protocol.

During the last years we have seen in Kalymnos some very dangerous routes, with uncleaned big loose blocks and improperly placed bolts.

We already cleaned and rebolted some of them, but if this keep going it will be very bad for Kalymnos (and adds extra unplanned work for us than the needed rebolting and bolting of routes).

No, Mike, you must wait for the committee.

I personally bolted Skylla at 2008, we should check out exactly the needed changes.

Great News for bolting efforts

https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=896934690502640&id=100005583511697

Thanks Dr F.

Maybe 7b+

I was surprised to read about imperfect bolting on Scylla. I have climbed it number of times and never noticed anything worrying there.

Also Mike, there is no such thing as Redpoint and Onsight grade for route in sport climbing.