Anchors and Lower off at Afternoon and Spartan

[Anonymous]

Was climbing at Afternoon and Spartan Wall last week and were shocked about the lower offs in some routes (e.g. Swiss Baby).

I think it is only a matter of a few climbs before they will break.

Not sure who and how someone will take care, but I am pretty sure there is will a major disaster soon, if they will not be replaced.

[Anonymous]

Today 7.4.2013 with the help and belaying of Carl Dawson we changed the very bad bolts or lower-offs at 5 routes.

Spartan Wall: Harlem Nights, 1 bolt (Rockland) at the lower off was snapped out.

Afternoon: Swiss Baby, more than half-eaten carabiner at lower-off.

Grande Grotta: Monahiki Elia, more than half-eaten carabiner at lower off. We put a new chain lower-off with 2 opposite carabiners.

Grande Grotta: DNA, the most popular route at Kalymnos. The nut of one of the 2 bolts of the lower off was missing. We add a new bolt slightly moving the lower-off at a better place. We also change the last bolt of the route to a new, more convenient place for clip in.

Grande Grotta: Aphrodite, one missing bolt before the lower-off added.

Some interesting photos from the old bolts here:

https://plus.google.com/photos/112713661226599375215/albums/5864157122981325537

Climb Kalymnos is looking for volunteer equippers (qualified climbers) to replace corroded or worn-out bolts and lower-offs at Kalymnos. More than 2,000 new stainless steel bolts and 300 lower-offs available. Get involved!

[Anonymous]

good job aris

[Anonymous]

Aris, I’d like to help whenever I am there.

I will be there from April 27 to May 8 and then maybe sometime through the summer.

Also I plan on being there for sure from end September, hopefully for a month but thats not certain yet. Nearly 3 weeks for sure.

I have to say I have never placed a bolt but am willing to learn and I’m sure I can manage to replace existing bolts or hangers ok…

You have my contact details I think and maybe see you later this month.

Anything I can do to help please just ask.

Mike

[Anonymous]

Hi Aris,

Many thanks for your efforts and work!

I will again be on Kalymnos for the first half of September. And I will again bring my bolting kit. I have put up a couple of routes on Kaly (and many elsewhere) in the past, so I’m a competent bolter. I would be happy to carry my drill whenever I just go climbing to replace any bad bolts that I encounter right away. I hope that kind of support is welcome.

Can you better describe how and where the bolts can be picked up?

[Anonymous]

MDE: Thanks for being so Kind! Contact me when you arrive at Kaly, I will provide you with the bolts etc and maybe starting to work together for a few routes.

MIKEY: Thanks! Contact me also when you arrive. When I go for rebolting you may help and lern the job!

[Anonymous]

Will do

Mike

[Anonymous]

Thank you Aris, good job!

I would like to point out even the last 2 bolts of Elefanten-himmel extension (http://climbkalymnos.com/?p=254) that are rusty

Fabio

[Anonymous]

Zeus

Today we add biners at the lower-offs of:

La Mouette généreuse 6b 20m,

Kalyfornication 6b+ 25m

Pipe Cleaner 7a+/7b 30m

Also some bolts added to La Mouette généreuse and Kalyfornication to avoid a fatal fall on the midway ledge.

[Anonymous]

good job … thanks

[Anonymous]

Sector Cave

Routes:

Cat walk 6a+

Sleepwalker 5c 25m

The above 2 Routes Rebolted from Louca Salsoto and Claude Idoux at 22/4/2013.

The 2 routes and some more other routes opened from Joachim Friedrich, Gunter Hommel (Germany)at 10/2010 using not stainless steel lower-offs and hangers from SPORTLER!

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/5JHZhLcMLO3ePYoSC2ae6NMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=directlink

We kindly ask all the equippers to keep the rules:

http://climbkalymnos.com/?page_id=2#equiping.

All new bolts and lower-offs used in this rebolting were provided by ClimbKalymnos bolt supply.

[Anonymous]

I noticed a very worn single lower-off, it was either on Quando Tramonta or Homeric Verses at Poets – I’m sorry, I should have taken a note of which route it was on.

I have just returned home from Kalymnos after another great trip. Many thanks to you and all the other bolters, Aris.

[Anonymous]

Hello Aris,

Thanks for continuous efforts to keep routes safe.

I have climbed the easy routes on Spartan yesterday (9th June) and noticed terribly corroded screws at lower-off bolts there. Bolts themselves, chains, carabiniers (rings) are fine, but some of the screws were all rust. Applies to lower offs at all the routes from Dulces S. to Insomnia. I would not say it’s imminent danger, but corrosion proceeds pretty quickly once it gets deep.

BTW I did the Swiss baby as well and seen the fresh carabinier at the lower off – it is noticeably worn off already! Some people never stop lowering off over the built-in alone – I myself have to admit I used to do it before, and only seeing seriously “eroded” steel carabiniers teached me to stop the practice. If I was an equipper, I would use rings only (two bolt, chain, and two rings). That forces people to do something before rushing down and the ring lasts much longer in any case.

I am a frequent visitor to Kaly and willing to help, however I never equipped a route – if you can make use of me I’ll report my arrival next time (possibly end of October).

Jiri

[Anonymous]

Hi Aris

Thanks for all the work you guys did on Kaly.

From Monday the 17th of June till the 8th of July, I will be on Kalymnos. I will be climbing a lot these weeks. As I have never replaced or bolted anything in my life, I wil be happy to at least report any damage done to bolts or lower-offs. Can you give some indication when a lower-off is worn off and need replacement. (of course I’m willing to replace too, but I think I need some education for it first)

Cheers, Ed

[Author]

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