Bolting issues in several sectors

[Anonymous]

Just a brief summary of things I observed during our stay in one single post. Despite it’s all negative be aware that I had a lot of fun climbing and I’m also thankful to those who equipped.

Eros

The left routes (Zorba, Kava Aris) have corroded Rockland bolts. Many hangers are spinning, but the nuts cannot be tightened anymore (because they are rusted). Aphrodite has a very corroded lower off (do not climb!)

Poets

Happy Hole, better to do it in 2 pitches, way too much ropedrag else in the final crux for my taste and I just clipped ~half of the bolts in the first pitch, all with alpine 60cm draws. Not really a bolting issue though, they are perfect in line.

Arginonta Skyline / Piccalia

Last Thyme has the anchor in dubious, hollow sounding rock. I did not dare to use it, one can reach the one of Fat Bread on the right. Also, the route has a chipped hold on the tufa. I believe that bolts or anchors in hollow sounding rock may be even more common on the easier lines in this sector (just according to talking to other, less experienced climbers at the scene to whom I explained why I did not use the anchcor of Last Thyme).

Olympic Wall

On the two new routes on the very right (Sleeping Beauty, Smooth Operator): bolts already show first signs of corrosion. Plus, both have chipped holds which can be avoided (making the climbs more cruxy and ~1 letter grade harder).

Arginonta Valley / Rock n’ Roll Cave

First bolt of Maniac Street Preachers can be pulled out of the rock by hand (and put back in). Several other nuts were loose and hangers spinning. Yes, one can tighten them. And tighten… until the bolt is pulled out of the rock. I believe that at least partly the rock there is too soft for expansion bolts, glue-ins required.

Gerakios Upper Cave

Bolts on Ergo are corroded. There are quite many and no big fall potential, maybe still doable.

Grande Grotta

Taj Mahal, some big chalk signs at the beginning of the extension to let people know not to climb this extension or at least be very cautious. There are fragile tufas around, in the current state only for experienced people who have an eye for that and know how to climb in lightweight mode. It’s especially worrying here, because there are almost always people below in the drop zone. Additionally, the route is not a good example for how to equip. Around 3x as many holes were drilled than there are bolts now – some unused, some with bolts that were chopped again.

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