Confused about chipping in new guidebook.

[Anonymous]

Looking at the guidelines in the new guidebook for creating routes is a little confusing regarding chipping. On page 35 it clearly says dont chip (I think this is point 8, dont have the book here). But then just a few points under that it says that not only is it tolerated to take a hammer to soften up sharp edges, it’s is even requested! I don’t understand how one can say that chipping is forbidden, and then ask for people to chip routes to make it easier on the fingers.

Is this kind of chipping done very much on Kalymnos?

[Anonymous]

Hi Mike,

I don’t think I’ve been on any routes on Kalymnos where holds have been CREATED by chipping (in the style of, say, Shipley Glen in the UK, or the drilled pockets on some other European venues).

However, in some places the Kalymnian rock is viciously sharp and, if you have to hang any weight on these holds, blood will be drawn! So what I understand the guidebook to be saying is: if there is an extreme razor-sharp ‘edge’ on the edge of an EXISTING hold then it might not be a bad thing if it were gently ‘blunted’. So ‘blunting’ would perhaps be a more appropriate term than ‘chipping’. I’m not making a play on words here; I do think there is a significant difference. I don’t think anyone would wish to encourage chipping in the sense of making routes technically easier on Kalymnos.

Carl

[Anonymous]

Hi Mike,

As Carl says above, we certainly do not ask people to chip holds (i.e. double their size or create them out of nowhere). What we ask is that they clean natural holds very well as part of good practice when opening new routes. Thankfully there are very few ‘man-made’ holds on Kalymnos, and we all hope it stays that way. I am glad you brought this up — we will make sure to clarify it in the next edition of the guidebook so there is no confusion.

Cheers,

Aris

[Anonymous]

Well, I do have to be honest, I do know there is a difference. It’s just that it feels like you are bringing the rock down to your comfort zone because you don’t want your fingers to hurt. Personally I would either not bolt such a route, or write warnings of very sharp edges in the guidebook.

On the other hand Kalymnos seems to be a place where the climbers safety is top priority (I am not used to that), so I can understand that if someone bolts an amazing line with that one razor edge that you might dyno to, you would not want people visiting the hospital with a finger or two in a bag of ice. I doubt everyone would refrain from bolting such a route, so I guess it is in line with the high standard of keeping routes safe to remove potential finger choppers.

If it is encouraged just so climbers can avoid sore fingers and loosing a little skin so they can climb longer, then I think it’s shame.

Thanks for your responces.

/Mike

[Author]

Posts