EQUIPPING NEW ROUTES – New Route Protocol

[Anonymous]

No need to take it in personally Mike. No offence intended. I simply stated what it was like for me. I am not even sure what bolt you mean to be honest. My partner being shorter than me took number of falls trying to figure out long move half way up (I guess), there was indeed some swing to the right – is that the place you mentioned?

As in for grading – of course there is difference between on-sight and reappoint styles, but routes only have one grade, and that grade describes easiest possible way of ascending it. Most likely only discovered after extensive beta adjustments (read redpointing) the route.

Following your thought process – imagine hard core climbs that has been redpointed but not onsighted yet (any given 9b at the moment). How would you grade them if onsight grade was a thing? Grade unknown? But it has been climbed… Tricky. Hence, sport climbing defines grades as per paragraph above.

EDIT: Actually, to add to it bit. I tried to imagine what onsight grades would actually be. Can’t really wrap my head around it. Would you mind providing some examples of classic Kalymnos routes along with their current (redpoint) grade and onsight grade if this was how routes were graded. Interested to see how it plays out.

[Anonymous]

Hm..I just onsighted (placing the draws in) Scylla yesterday an nothing was wrong with bolting! I personaly think it is good equiped. You have good rest and clip, than took two finger pocket with right and cross it to the good crimp with the left and clip again..so, the protection and the bolts are just fine where they are..for the grade I would say low end 7c, definetely not 7c+..

Today I did a route on the far right in sector Panorama. I wanna go L’homme qui tombe a spit, but realised this one is completely new, to the right of L’homme. Since I have one week old guide book, I am surprised (and angry) it is not in..

Any info avalible what I did?

[Anonymous]

Hi Rayko, thanks for the info on Scylla, I think you are just right.

As for the new route at Panorama, this is completely new, after we sent the guidebook to the printers at the end of August.

We have not heard about a free ascent yet, if you climb it, some feedback will be appreciated.

(by the way he have about 200 new routes per year in Kalymnos!).

[Anonymous]

I think now is around 7b+(kaly grading). Rock is very crumbly and sharp, so with traffic will be better and probably 7b. Would give 2*.

Do you maybe know the name?

[Anonymous]

Ok Rayko, I don’t recognise your beta but I’ll have another look for the crimp you mention next time. I found the crux bolt way too far right and too high for me to reach, but clearly thats just me I also think the next bolt puts the quickdrawer directly over the hold needed to progress. Again, maybe I can find another way. The route currently has a maillion on the bolt at the rest you mention before the crux so it seems others have struggled there.

Kamil. No need really, I think most of the grades here ARE on sight grades. If you want good examples of routes with Redpoint grades just look for the ones Simon bolted and there you have it. Add at least 1 grade to his routes and you have its on-sight grade. I’ve climbed many places and the only place I’ve been shut down on a route I would normally expect to ‘on-sight’ was in France.

[Anonymous]

No, the are not. They are simply softly graded.

[Anonymous]

Hmmm, okey dokey.

[Author]

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