Is Sea Breeze Great Canyon safe (Rockland bolts issue)?

[Anonymous]

Dear all!

Does anybody know whether See Breeze Great Canyon is safe to climb?

In the 2015 guide book it says routes 1-12 (Melomakaronas – Brave new World) is bolted with Rockland Bolts and has to be avoided. I have looked at it today and some routes start now with glue-in bolts; but after the start, most routes continue with expansion bolts, where it‘s unclear to me whether they are the old Rockland bolts.

Confusing is that in the 2016 guidebook edition it is not mentioned anymore; however in the 2018 Rockfax they are not sure whether it is safe and the post about rockland bolts here (https://climbkalymnos.com/attention-climbers-bad-bolts-routes-to-avoid/) still lists the routes as problematic (but may be outdated).

Has anyone new information about the status of the routes at Sea Breeze Great Canyon??

Thank you very much!

Heiko

[Anonymous]

Ho! In Rockfax they are not sure? It is strange, because when they (copy) do a topo, they say that they have done all the routes…

I only have done Boulderhoelle and Divine Commédie, they are safe with glue-on bolts. I was there two years ago and see the same as you say: some new bolts, but only some…

[Anonymous]

https://climbkalymnos.com/list-of-rebolted-routes-and-answers-to-other-frequently-asked-questions/

[Anonymous]

Thanks a lot Aris! This clarifies the issue. And thanks Pascal for sharing your experiences.

Best regards

Heiko

[Anonymous]

Dear Aris

I have now been in See Breeze Great Canyon again. There are still Rockland bolts in the routes. This seems to contradict the information on the website that all the routes there were rebolted.

I have started climbing „Art in the Air“ (7a). It starts with two new glue-in bolts, then extension bolts. The first Petzl, then Rocklands, then Raumer, then Rocklands. After the fourth extension bolt, the next ones seemed older and I stopped and came down.

Since it says in the guidebook respectively on ClimbKalymnos.com that all Rockland bolts are “defective“ and should be avoided, this route is not rebolted following this definition/guideline. The bolts look ok; however, since I don’t know more why the Rockland bolts are problematic, it seems to me a problematic sector.

I have not yet seen many people in the sector and maybe it is because of this issue. I would recommend to comment more on this issue in the new guidebook or on the website.

All this does obviously not affect that all of you do a great job and the routes and the guidebook are really great, making Kalymnos one of the best climbing destinations world-wide.

Thank you very much and best regards

Heiko

[Anonymous]

Thanks for being so kind Heiko, and thanks for the feedback. “Art in the Air” is it in my list for rebolted routes, I will check it out personally. If bolts look well, it seems, that we changed the bolts but not the (Rockland) hangers, who was ok.

[Anonymous]

Sorry Pascal but DIvine Comedie did not have glue-ins when I was on it last week. It had expansion bolts (I didn’t notice what kind), the second of which is badly corroded.

[Anonymous]

Excuse-me, you are right, only Boulderhoelle had glue-in bolts!

[Author]

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