Leros

[Anonymous]

Just back from a 3 day trip to climb on Leros. Tried both crags. Both faced roughly Eastish and had morning sun, shade from about 12 – 1300. Bolts are all in good condition, and there is a mix of lower offs and threads.

There are no paths, as mentioned on the web site but the walks are not too hard or long.

Leros is beautiful, green, clean and very relaxing. We stayed in Panteli at Castelo Hotel. Both are good and recommended.

The climbing is way under-graded compared to Kalymnos. Leave your ego at home because unless your comfy on 8’s it will get bruised and battered.

Most of the routes are at least one grade down, many 2 or more (IMHO).

At Bianca – ‘Fix Hellas’ gets 7a. I redpointed it and felt it more like 7b+ Excellent technical climbing and wonderful moves, but….. a shock at 7a.

‘Don’t tell it your Mama’ gets 6c+ and I reckon more like 7a+ for the moved through the bulge.

‘The Freak in Me’ was superb and close to the grade at 6c+

‘The Lady’s First’ was also great at 6b+…(maybe 6c)

‘Nimertis’ 6b. Didn’t do much for me and felt hard for the grade.

‘Flash or Flasche’ 5c. Brilliant route, lovely rock and well cleaned. Consider it 6a and enjoy some lovely moves at this grade.

At Xirokampos… Worth noting is the only ‘hard’ route I tried before running off with my tail between my legs, was ‘Toxic Baglava’ – 7a. After a hard mid crux, which I had to work, the top section, getting to, and especially getting from the pocket to the top undercut was desperate. I reckon 7c/7c+ unless you’re 6’5″ tall with go-go gadget arms!

‘The Captain Didn’t Come’ was good at 6a(+) and ‘Nicki Naki’ was also fun, if a little intimidating.

The one to do is ‘Delaylas Oil’ 6b+. brilliant climbing, long and sustained, a snip at 6c+

Have fun, take a clip stick and a selection of leaver beaners!!!!!

Mike

[Anonymous]

Thanks Mike, very helpful report.

I will post it also at the Leros’ page of climbkalymnos.

http://climbkalymnos.com/two-new-sport-crags-in-leros-the-island-just-north-of-kalymnos/

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