Telendos-North Face Gelitokit – 4/5th belay on a huge loose block

[Anonymous]

From the 4th belay on the big loose block (about the size of the ferry taking you from Myrties to Telendos), you are meant to climb against this big loose block to reach the next belay where you have to stand on that huge scary thing. As we didn’t plan to die that day, we kept on climbing on the solid face to the left, choosing to run it out. The last pitch would make a nice pitch of 6a on solid rock (unlike the horror show of the original final pitch) but would need bolting. We managed it with one threaded sling and long run outs.

All in all a really great route despite the final pitch which is frankly best avoided. Rebolting an alternative exit pitch just to the left would make a good adventurous multi pitch on the north face of Telendos, as it stands it’s probably best to ab off at the 3rd belay before the 6a pitch.

[Anonymous]

Just wondering if something has been done? Has the route be taken off the guidebook or anything? Or a warning published somewhere?

[Anonymous]

Relevant route page already informed. http://climbkalymnos.com/gelitokit/

We will update the info at next edition of the guidebook too.

Also, we will inform the app.

Thanks.

[Author]

Posts