Urs Odermatt and Peter Keller—Swiss mountain guides, good friends of Kalymnos, and equippers extraordinaire—are back with a new sector: Griffig. The new sector was developed in spring 2022; the word griffig promisingly means “rock with many holds,” and the cliff is near sector Milianos, on the way to Vathy.
If the names Peter and Urs don’t sound familiar, the great climbing they have added to Kalymnos over the years definitely will: sectors Irox, Glaros, and Lambda, and the multi-pitches Wings for Life, Wild Country, and Three Stripes are all connected to them. So you are in good hands.
Griffig features 31 well-bolted routes ranging all the way from 3c to 8b+. Climbing is varied, on prominent features with big holds, technical walls with pockets and crimps, and steep, long, and challenging limestone. Urs and Peter have a track record of bolting high-quality routes, and this wall is “windy and amazingly cool, with a lot of shade; you will find good grip there most of the time, and many people will be interested during the summer heat.” In other words, a win-win.
The development of Sector Griffig was financed by various sponsors from around the town of Uster, Switzerland. The main sponsor was Griffig climbing gym. The bolts used are stainless steel double expansion bolts (316L marine quality) by Lappas Climbing.
The team were kind enough to create a comprehensive, downloadable PDF topo, included below, with all the info needed to start climbing right away. Photos are courtesy of Urs Odermatt unless otherwise noted. (Thank you Urs, Peter, Cécile & friends!)
As always with new sectors, helmets are a good idea, and more climbing and feedback are needed to confirm grades.
Enjoy, all!
16 Comments
Hi Peter 1, as we wrote on the text, grades are not confirmed yet, Please send your feedback! Peter & Urs have limited time to try the routes and some grades are estimated. However after several repeats and feedback from a lot of climbers, we are at a process to have confirmed grades, when the crag be published in the next guidebook (spring 2023). Until then, some climbers can enjoy the easy grades. So, have fun on these nice the routes, and if you don’t agree with the grade, send us your feedback! Cheers, Aris
haha the grading in griffig… Sorry but this makes the first ascentionist ridiculous… 7c’s are real 7a’s? 8a’s are real 7b+??
seems like tourism and good feeling vibes over climbing in general. Good crag, but Peter & Urs should correct that. Thats definitly the wrong way and grades should be objectiv! Even on Kalymnos.
New route to to the right of Zellweger:
Trypophobie 1* 8b+? 35m Pre-clip the second bolt. The route joins the final part of Climbers Village.
New route to to the right of Chuchichäschtlitripp:
Suchspiel 2* 7a 20m
New route to to the right of Timba Climber:
Griffology 3* 7b+ 25m
Does any one know the name of the route immediately to the right of Timba Climber?
A new and very nice sector; thanks to all the guys who developed the routes there!
We went there four times the last weeks and enjoyed every route. Important information:
Not every bolt is tightened, so check them.
On the anchor of “Pestalozzi” half of the anchor was hanging on the chain. We decided to use the anchor left of it. (Route “Lou+Zoe”). As many of the routes where graded without having climbed by the developers the grading should be adjusted. All above 6b seems (or is definitely) easier than it’s in the temporary topo.
Zupper!
Really enjoyed this new sector — thanks so much Urs and Peter!
Hi climbers
In one hard route, there are hidden some little treasures… ?
Do you find out, which one it is and how many there are?
Have fun!
Cécile, Stefan, Ilona & Mathis
Yeah Urs&Peter&Team! DANKE
i heard about the new sector when i was there may/june. so happy to discover very soon!
Gruesse Krisi (;-) das lambda model
Hi Ludo
Pestalozzi was a famous Philantrop in Switzerland. Thats why the grade is a kind of a gift for everybody.
Hope you understand this sense of humor and enjoyed the climbing.
Cheers
Urs
Fantastic sector, spectacular rock!!! Just one tip: I think Pestalozzi 7a is much more easier than the next Lou 6c+, Maye the grades were inverted? Thanks for the wonderfoul job, the bolting was perfect!
Don’t Miss griffig goes to kalymnos, big holds 6b on splendid rock.
Wir freuen uns sehr auf den neuen Sektor,
liebe Grüße aus Wien
Inge und Peter
Well done, Urs and Peter. I’m looking forward to trying them if/when I get there again.
Dave
Thank’s We will be happy to go and discover this new sector, thanks again to the benefactors and ushers