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Heroes, a new sector high above Skalia village

Steve Ioannou on “Sam Spade” 7c. Photo: Kieran Duncan

Sector Heroes is the latest addition to Kalymnos climbing. It is a small and short crag (by Kalymnos standards), with routes up to 20-25m long. However, most routes offer high quality climbing, and some are truly outstanding.  

The highest point of the approach path enjoys sweeping views. Photo: Katie Roussos

Another benefit of sector Heroes: its location. It is near the top of the road leading to Palionisos, with sweeping views over the sea, the islet of Calavros, and the north face of Telendos. 

Sector Heroes was developed mostly in August 2019 by Aris Theodoropoulos, with the help of Katie Roussos and George Kopalides. Three routes had been opened previously by Christian Lemrich. (Billie, Agnodice, Greek Freak). All three routes were cleaned and rebolted with new hangers and lower-offs.

Sector Heroes features 25 routes. Unfortunately, there isn’t much potential for further route development. 

Since sector Heroes is still new, route grades and descriptions are subject to change following more ascents.  

All route names are written on the rock.

  • A note about the route “Billie:” a big block is wedged about halfway up this corner climb. It looks like a “death block,” and we tried and tried (and tried) to remove it, with no success. (This is one of three routes bolted previously; the original equipper, C Lemrich, had also probably tried to remove the block.) The block does not move, but we still intend to return and remove it with the proper tools. If you don’t feel comfortable, do not climb this route.

Many thanks also to Rory Gregory for reminding us about this cliff with some photos. 

Left: Tania Matsuka on the sustained wall of “Mallory” 6c+. Right: Angus Harrison-Smart fighting hard on “Prometheus” 7c+. Both photos: Kieran J Duncan

Climbing: The crag consists of three small caves connected to each other with vertical walls. There is a big variety of climbing styles, from very steep cave climbing on big holds or some tufas to grey walls, off-vertical pocketed walls, short and steep athletic routes, and so on. 

Lillian Chao-Quinlan on the beautiful “Prometheus” 7c+. Photo: Scott Hailstone

Gear: Minimum 70m rope and 16 quickdraws. Don’t forget the knot at the inactive end of your rope!

Kids: Good. The approach is fairly easy and the terrain beneath the cliffs is relatively safe.

Conditions: Best for climbing in spring and fall. However, summer climbing is also possible on days with a northerly breeze, as there are long hours of shade.  

Shade: Until about 14:00 (walls) or 15:00 (inside the caves).

Exposure: NW

Approach: From Masouri, drive towards Emporios. After you pass the village of Skalia, turn right towards Palionisos. At the top of the road there is a chapel with a large cross. Across the road from the chapel, on your right-hand side, there is a sign to the crag “Profitis Andreas” and a parking area. Park there (37.04348, 26.952927). Cross the road and follow the path starting to the right of the chapel and heading northwest. Soon the path goes through a gate, then continues just to the left of a fence with nice views of the bay where sector “The Beach” is located, as well as the island of Leros. After about 10 more minutes of easy, low-angle walking, you will arrive at a col with a big cairn. Turn left up to the col, then walk downhill for five more minutes to the crag, which is visible down to the left. Walking time: 15-18 min.

Left: Jo Nesbo on “Amelia,” a ‘musical’ 6c. Photo: Hanna Jordan
Right: Aris Theodoropoulos cleaning and bolting Heroes in August. Photo: Katie Roussos

To help you enjoy sector Heroes we have compiled all the important info in a handy PDF, which you can download and print. We hope you love Heroes as much as we do! As always, after climbing there, if you have any comments, grade suggestions, or other feedback about sector Heroes, please send it our way.

Download Heroes Topo

Get an extended glimpse of sector Heroes in a great 25-min video by Chris Hailey below. But beware: there are multiple routes and beta revealed in the film, so if onsighting is your thing, maybe you should skip watching it until later.

5 Comments

  • peakrock says:
    April 20, 2023 at 22:42

    We think several of the routes in the 6B range are undergraded compared with other crags in Kalymnos. Greek Freak at 6B is right but Dr King and Paddy are longer and harder and should be 6C. Stadler and Waldorf is also harder than Greek Freak and a grade of 6B+ would be fairer.

  • Thomas says:
    October 3, 2021 at 09:16

    Hey,

    we were climbing in Heroes. Super super nice. great work! :)

    Two things: Many of the bolts rotate. On some routes its better to be a bit careful.

    Unfortunately, the grades are not correct at all, even for Kalymnian conditions. “Holiday grading” is cool and push your ego !but! climbing grades should reflect some objectivity.

    Have now spoken with several people about it…

    Prometheus (7c) in many climbing areas would be the 7b+.

    Captain Heel Hook max. 6c+

    Mallory max. 6c

    It would be great, even if it is Kalymnos, if the grades were based on the worldwide comparison. If there is a new guidebook is in work, it should be printed with the right grades.

    Many many thanks for the great work! Also on this site :)

    all the best
    Thomas

  • Altmeister says:
    September 9, 2021 at 19:03

    Very beautiful Wall, congratulations
    to the Explorer of these Ei

  • Altmeister says:
    September 9, 2021 at 18:25

    Very beautiful Wall, congratulations
    to the Explorer of these rocks ????

  • Albi says:
    October 26, 2019 at 09:41

    Thanks Aris for bolting, cleaning, … ?
    CU ?

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