Little Eden is a new, dreamy crag on the east coast of Kalymnos, near Rina/Vathy. It is a short photogenic cliff that sits just above a quiet beach north of the Vathy fjord. Locally, the beach is known as Kampí.  

Little Eden is ideal for climbing on hot days. The cliff comes into the shade just before 12 o’clock noon. The green-blue waters shimmering below are reason enough to visit, even if climbing is not on the day’s itinerary. 

Climbing: 50 meters from the beach, the cliff is orange, white, and grey limestone of very good quality and a height of up to 20-25 meters. The rock is strongly featured with pockets, some natural vertical cracks, and relatively sharp holds. It can be compared to sector The Beach in that the rock is sharp and mostly vertical.  

Routes: There are 25 routes to-date, graded primarily between 6a-7b. The hardest routes (8a–8b?) are short with very tough boulder passages. More traffic will benefit the crag by clearing away little sharp bits. There is potential for many new routes, especially easier ones, up to 6a, but thorough cleaning of vegetation and loose rock is a prerequisite. 

Equippers: Little Eden was equipped in summer 2019 by the Austrian climber Hannes Webhofer, with the help of the Kalymnian climber Panormitis Platsis and the Swiss climber Niels Abegglen. The Kalymnos Kayak Centre (KKC), a local business renting kayaks and boats, contributed transfers to and from the crag. (Routes #23 and #24 were equipped by Luca Salsotto and Jürgen Rohrmann.) 

Bolts: The hardware used to equip Little Eden (bolts, hangers, and clippable lower-offs) was provided by us here at Climb Kalymnos. This is made possible thanks to proceeds from the Kalymnos guidebook. We are grateful to all the climbers who continue to support our efforts.

Conditions: Perfect for afternoon climbing when the temperature is high and the heat too intense at other parts of the island. Avoid days with strong winds, especially out of the south and east.

Shade: After 11:30-12:00. Exposure: NE

Approach: Little Eden is very easy to approach with a boat from Vathy. Go to the small port of Rina/Vathy and ask at the pier or the tavernas for somebody with a boat to take you to Kampí beach. Ask for the price, and don’t forget to also arrange for your return. Alternatively, if it’s not very windy and the water outside Vathy fjord is very calm, you can rent a kayak from KKC at the far end of the pier. (Small engine-powered boats are also for rent.) By boat, you will need 5-10 minutes to the beach. By kayak, 15-20 minutes. When you get to the beach, head to the left side, behind the trees. A narrow uphill path to the cliffs starts there. Walking time: 3 minutes.   

We think Little Eden is a very worthwhile addition to Kalymnos climbing, and its popularity is guaranteed. We are particularly happy that it will benefit Vathy, an outstandingly beautiful part of Kalymnos that has not exactly been on the top of climbers’ lists. We hope this new crag will give the local economy of Vathy a much-needed boost.

As always, don’t forget to bring plenty of water and food with you, and thank you for leaving no trace when you leave the crag. This is not limited to only picking up your (and maybe other people’s) trash and knowing how to properly poop outdoors, but extends to your general attitude and crag etiquette.

Lastly, as you have come to expect, we leave you with a list of routes for sector Little Eden in a handy PDF. Download, print, climb, and send us your feedback.

ROUTES

1. Prima Ballerina, 7a+/7b
2. Tiny Dancer, 7a
3. Spirit Dance, 6c
4. Dirty Dancing, 6c
5. Dance Party, 6a+
6. Beginner’s Luck, 5c
7. Rock Star, 5b+
8. The Line, 7a+
9. Pride and Joy, 6a+
10. Spider Hotel, 6a+
11. All or Nothing, 6b
12. Rebel Yell, 7a
13. Soul Stripper, 7a+
14. Optical Illusion, 7b+/7c
15. Masters of Stone, 7c+
16. Fail to Send, 8b
17. Going Nowhere Fast, 8a/8b?
18. Seventh Heaven, 7a
19. Cloud 9, 7a+
20. Stone Romance, 6b
21. Stone Monkeys, 6a+
22. Stone Warriors, 6a+
23. Stone Cold, 6a
24. Mixed Emotions, 6a
25. Hidden Beauty, 6c