gelitokit
Rating: 1★
Grade: 6b+
Length: 100m
Description: Multi-pitch (P1 6a+ 20m, P2 6b+ 30m, P3 5c 25m, P4 6a 15m, P5 5c10m). Five bolt-protected pitches, but not real sport climbing—rather, a full alpine day out! P1: Climb the white wall right of the red pillar to the 1st belay before the cave on the right. P2: A chimney/corner to reach an overhanging hand/fist crack. Well-bolted. P3: Move out of the cave on to an exposed arête. Beautiful slab climbing, but some loose rock. P4: Continue up the slab following the bolts, moving left at a distinct pillar to find a hidden belay behind a rock on the left. P5: Best to avoid it. Recent report about a very big loose block. Finish 15m below the peak. Return: Abseil down. See diagram on left page. Caution: The rock is loose in places, and the use of helmets is strongly recommended.
Equipped by: I Riva, A Gelfi 2001

COMMENTS

  • Adam & Noémie Looker-Anselme
    2017-04-08 17:32:49
    We climbed this route on the 6 of April 2017. The route is nearly perfect. Pitch 1. As described, the belay is before the cave on the right. Pitch 2. Not an off width, it's more a chimney/corner to reach an overhanging hand/fist crack, The crux. Good fun, well bolted. Pitch 3. Move out of the cave on to an exposed arête. Beautiful slab climbing, some loose rock but nothing too serious. Pitch 4. Continue up the slab following the bolts, moving left at a distinct pillar to find a hidden belay. Pitch 5. From the belay on the big loose block (about the size of the ferry taking you from Myrties to Telendos), you are meant to climb against this big loose block to reach the next belay where you have to stand on that huge scary thing. As we didn't plan to die that day, we kept on climbing on the solid face to the left, choosing to run it out. The last pitch would make a nice pitch of 6a on solid rock (unlike the horror show of the original final pitch) but would need bolting. We managed it with one threaded sling and long run outs, this was a better option than rolling the dice with the loose boulder. All in all a great route despite the final pitch which is frankly best avoided. The walk down is more straightforward if you continue along the summit plateau to the regular descent as for the south face. Despite living in Alps and climbing long routes around the world we feel this route has no place in Kalymnos thanks to this 'designer danger' last pitch. Rebolting an alternative exit pitch just to the left would make a good adventurous multi pitch on the north face of Telendos, as it stands it's probably best to ab off at the 3rd belay before the 6a pitch.

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