Description: Great tufa action on a slightly overhanging wall. Do the "big" move and you can do it all!
Equipped by: M Srutek, F Kocis 2008
COMMENTS
Gregor
2013-09-02 22:49:58
Hey guys, Natural rock Should stay Natural. If the Edge is Sharp, its Sharp, Even if it Cuts your Skin. If you want have comfortable Routes go Or stay in the gym! Thats Whats makes the difference. I come from an area with Loose rock, so the Routes often change their character in the Last 30 yrs, keeps it interesting. For the beautiful Rock at Kaly just this advice : absolute no Chipping!
kukotch
2013-08-26 14:11:41
Hi carl,
I would prefer not to mention such routes because that might make things "personal" and lead to some kind of flamewar (which is not uncommon between climbers unfortunatelly). A new crag in armeos has signs of this. In another beginner crag in telendos too.
Instead i would rather point to some model crags for "how it should be done". Symplegades is one in my opinion: you have to use what's there without any help from the equipers.
And as i said, Aris should not give musical or 3*** to routes where excessive cleaning has taken place, even if that makes the route more homogenous.
carl dawson
2013-08-25 21:24:10
Hi Kukotch,
You make some valuable points of concern here and, yes I agree, the vast majority of climber do not want to see whole-scale alterations to a crag just to facilitate their climbing. A wasteland of cleaning scars and routes manufactured with multiple chipped/drilled holds are not welcome in Kalymnos (even though such climbing grounds do exist elsewhere in Europe).
In my view, most of the cliffs in Kalymnos have been cleaned with a careful eye on the ‘fine line’ between 'cleaning' and ‘excavation’. However, on the type of limestone here, there are often loose flakes, fragile sections of tufa and, on some crags, razor-sharp edges to holds. Although I believe there is no value in chipping multiple holds to make routes easier, I do think there is a very good case for removing loose rocks which could injure the climber (and, particularly in the tufa-caves, the belayer or innocent bystanders).
There is also a case for ‘comfortising’ (an ugly word, I know) some of the very sharpest edges, especially on powerful moves. Although this is more controversial, my view is that I’d prefer to pull hard without leaving blood on a powerful crux. I don’t want it to be easier, I just want to be able to work a move without leaving too much flesh on the rock! A less selfish point is that discreet comfortising can also save damage to ropes.
Without some degree of tidying and cleaning, it probably wouldn’t be worth the equippers’ time, effort and money bolting routes for you. People would try to climb them, and if they didn’t enjoy them the routes would become effectively abandoned… which surely would be a waste of the fabulous potential that Kalymnos offers.
So on Kalymnos, where the local ethos is of pleasurable and safe sport climbing, the price is a degree of sensible and thoughtful cleaning. I share your concerns though, so if you can give a few cases where you think this ‘fine line’ between ‘natural rock’ and ‘sensible cleaning’ has been overstepped, then please give a some examples and we can discuss them. In this way we can clarify the ‘fine line’ for future equippers.
Thanks
kukotch
2013-08-23 22:19:36
that page should probably be revised to mention that equipers should try to avoid over-cleaning. It is a new tendency in kalymnos by some over-eager equipers to take a hammer and nearly chip in new holds. When you see a gray wall with orange holds you know something is wrong...
Removing loose blocks is one thing. demolishing an entire wall is quite different. IMHO, such routes should not get 3***, not even one. The moves may be nice but the kalymnian rock damaged forever. Please stop this madness. You should NOT make a route "user-friendly" with a hammer.
Admin
2013-07-18 23:01:01
On July 17th 2013, Simone and Barbara Moro replaced the corroded bolts on this route (they were NON-stainless).
For those of you planning to equip new routes on Kalymnos, please follow the guidelines strictly: http://climbkalymnos.com/?page_id=2#equiping
otherwise your bolts will be removed.
mde
2012-09-19 15:01:55
Very good route, the bolts however are currently not in good condition. Especially the 3rd which protects the crux. If it fails, you are for sure back on the ground...
COMMENTS