Description: Multi-pitch, 11 pitches (P1 5a 20m, P2 5b 30m, P3 5b 10m, P4 4b 30m, P5 4c 20m, P6 5b 20m, P7 6a 30m, P8 5b 20m, P9 6a 20m, P10 5b 20m, P11 5a 30m). 18 QDs + gear for the belay points. A multi-pitch epic following a buttress along a gigantic cave. The 1st half of the route is fairly broken, but the upper part earns its stars as it leads directly above the daunting overhangs through a goutte-and-chickenhead zone. It doesn't get any more exposed than this, but, incredibly, it also never gets harder than 6a! Follow the rib coming down the right-hand side of the huge cave for many pitches, on very sharp rock (well-bolted). A very awkward steep corner finally lands one below the headwall. Technical climbing now leads up and left into hyperspace (hanging belay). At the top, throw away your climbing shoes, massage your feet, bring up your partner, then walk up to the main Telendos ridge and start the scenic return.

Equipped by: P Keller, U Odermatt 2008