les copains d'abord
Rating: 3★
Grade: 6a+
Length: 200m
Description: Multi-pitch (P1 6a 33m, P2 6a+ 35m, traverse via fixed rope, P3 6a+ 38m, P4 5c 35m, P5 6a 25m). P1 + P2: Sustained slabs. P3: A clever chimney. P4 + P5: Slab climbing.
Equipped by: Claude Idoux (2014–2018)

COMMENTS

  • Aris
    2023-07-11 12:11:45
    Excellent feedback. Thanks a lot!
  • MotSeb
    2023-07-05 11:37:53
    Pure fun. Since the maître équipeur Claude wisely put an intermediate 2-bolts anchor on P3 (more or less halfway along the chimney) and on P4 (shortly above the “official” anchor), we climbed it in 7 pitches, in order to keep visual contact between leader and belayer. 2/3 long (alpine) QDs may come handy to reduce rope drag. The fixed rope between P2 and P3 is worn out in one point, but it’s not a big deal. P1: steady slab climbing on immaculate, rough rock, with only one “hard” move P2: a bulge on mostly good holds, then easy. Don’t stop at the first anchor, but continue a few meters to the fixed rope. — traverse right, then down, via fixed rope — P3a: 1st part of the chimney P3b: 2nd part of the chimney, then slight bulge to the right P4a: a short pitch to an intermediate, optional anchor, just to reduce rope drag (side note: traversing from EAGLE you will get to this anchor), P4b: rightward-trending slabs P5: more slabs to the top

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