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Rock climbing in Kalymnos, Greece

Psili Riza, a new climbing sector in Kalymnos


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Updated Oct 15th | Sector Psili Riza, also unofficially known as ‘The North Face (TNF) Crag’, was bolted specifically for -and unveiled during- the 2012 TNF Kalymnos Climbing Festival. It was the venue for the PROject Competition, now open to all climbers wanting to try out some of the testpiece routes from the competition. Sector Psili Riza is another significant addition to the crags of Kalymnos, offering 27 quality, super-technical wall climbs. Psili Riza is the local name of the area, which is located above the village of Panormos, affording the crag sweeping views over Linaria and Kantouni and across to the sea; a nice change from the views typically seen from most Kalymnos crags clustered around Masouri.

 

Most routes were created by Simone Moro and Jacopo Larcher during the summer of 2012.

 



Climbing: Vertical or slightly overhanging wall with small features, crimps, and the occasional tufa blob. ‘Jonas’ is a fabulous standout line featuring a single white tufa pipe.

 

Conditions: An ideal sector for climbing in winter months, as it is protected from the northern winds. The sun arrives early and the routes stay dry, except right after strong rainfall. Also good for climbing in the late fall and early spring, on dry days with low humidity and temperatures around 15C.

 

Sun: In the spring and summer the cliffs are in the shade until 13.00; in the fall the sun comes around a bit earlier, around 10.30-11.00. Exposure: Southern

 

Approach: Sector Psili Riza is located inland, high above the village of Panormos. From Masouri, take the road leading to Pothia (the main port). Go past Elies village and the big super market ‘Smalios’ on the right. Appr. 50m past the super market, turn left. Go to the end of the road and park in front of the monastery (St. Panteleimon). If access through the monastery is open, walk to the end of the road inside and up the steps to the right. Go out through the gate and close it behind you; then, follow the trail marked in red paint and cairns. After 30min the uphill trail traverses slightly leftwards and comes to the foot of the massive cliff.
If access through the monastery is closed, start at the parking lot and traverse rightwards around the monastery until you come to the start of the marked trail.
Total walking time: 45-55min

 

GPS Coordinates: Latitude 36°58’56.06″Β Longitude 26°57’19.05″Α

 

PLEASE NOTE: Slightly above and to the left of sector Psili Riza is another large cliff face. Please do not bolt any routes there, as it will be used for the next North Face climbing festival in 2013.

 

 

ROUTES

Psili Riza Topo. Source: http://www.thenorthfacejournal.com/category/kalymnos/project-competition/


1 Sunrise 7b+/c ?
2 X Ray 8a/b ?
3 Rewind 8c ?
4 Goofy 7c/ 8a ?
5 Drill Story 8a ?
6 Tizi 7c
7 Jonas 8a+
8 Schatz 7b+/c
*8.1 Whit and whitout 7a+
*8.2 Matt 1st pitch 6c+/ 2nd pitch 6c+ 40m/ 3rd pitch 6b+25m
*8.3 Full 7a+
*8.4 Kurt 6b+ 18m
9 Fruit Ninja 8b/+ ?
10 Boboule Barquette 9a+ ?
11 Early Birds 8b ?
12 Les Vent Nous Portera 8b+?
13 Sandmann 9a?
14 Cottero 8a+/b
15 Pumf 8c+ ?
16 Jeune et Con 8a+ / b ?
17 Il re Della Pioggia 8b+ ?
18 Sexy Grip ?
19 Melissa 7b+ /c
20 Camilla 6c
*21 Cialvrina 6c/6c+ 35m
*22 Dédé Genère 6b+/c 40m
*23 Ravouette 6b/6b+ 35m

 

*Routes 8.1, 8.2, 8.3, 8.4, 21,22 and 23 were equipped later by Claude Idoux and they are not included in the above topo by the North Face.

 

PSILI RIZA Printable Version

This entry was posted on Friday, October 12th, 2012 at 13:00 and is filed under Kalymnos news, New Sectors. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can skip to the end and leave a response. Pinging is currently not allowed.


One Response to “Psili Riza, a new climbing sector in Kalymnos”

  1. Admin says:

    Post updated on October 15th to include seven new routes equipped by Claude Idoux. These routes are not in the topo.

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