Types of lower-off anchors

[Anonymous]

Quoting a comment on http://climbkalymnos.com/guidebook/

Michael says:

January 5, 2018 at 12:42

Hello,

I just got back from a couple month visit to Kalymnos. We did have a nice time, but, my partner and I (and many other visitors we spoke with) agreed that it was “laugh-able” that the trust in the anchors found on the island came down to essentially a “single element” at some point- either a single stainless rap ring or a single stainless carabiner- even if two bolts are present.

We have always learned to use two elements on anchors (at least in the US.) Two bolts, separate chains. Nothing coming together on one single piece of equipment- ever.

What’s the logic behind all this- do you know?

Is this some sort of Greek specific thinking I’m missing?

I’d try to contact Artis, but I don’t have his email- do you?

Thank you

P.S. Also, what’s with the flimsy welded stainless loops that come off the bolts? Who’s

bright idea was this?

And Aris’s answer:

Hi Michael,

Actually, Kalymnos considered from the climbing community one of the safest sport climbing areas in the world due the quality and the style of the bolting and lower-off anchors.

We use mostly 2 types of lower-off anchors:

1. V-type: with 2 bolts + 2 chains _2 stainless steel clipable karabiner (this is used at the most popular routes to delay the wear and tear of the karabiners).

2. Standard type: 2 bolts + Chain + stainless steel clipable karabiner.

You can check out these products of Raumer here:

1. V-type:

http://www.raumerclimbing.com/eng/prodotti_dettaglio.asp?prod=belay_group_%F812&qi=0-9-355&qinav=0-9-c

2. Standard type: http://www.raumerclimbing.com/eng/prodotti_dettaglio.asp?prod=belay_group_%F810&qi=0-9-87&qinav=0-9-c

In this case, if you don’t trust the single karabiner to lower down (even it is connected with the chain to both 2 bolts) you can thread your rope through the ring which is also connected to 2 bolts.

Finally note also that this anchor is certified from:

• CE EN 795:2012 – Type A Anchors

• Conforme alla EN 959:2007 – Rock Anchors

• UIAA

Hope this helps and maybe see you next time,

Aris

[Author]

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