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Rock climbing in Kalymnos, Greece

“Titan Towers”, a New Sector on the South Face of Telendos


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Telendos - Titan Towers Picture Location v1-0.jpg
 
In 2014, when Gordon Jenkin and Francis Haden bolted the multi-pitch Eterna on the South Face of Telendos, we wrote: “It took the equippers six unglamorous days of dirt and hard work to equip Eterna…the first route [on Kalymnos] with titanium bolts”. In some ways, Francis and Gordon’s latest visit in September 2015 was like déjà vu all over again: Six more days of work which produced six routes from 5b to 7b equipped entirely in titanium. The new sector is aptly named Titan Towers. The towers are none other than “the compelling and dramatic 70m high pinnacles situated directly beneath the Inspiration cave high on the South Face of Telendos and clearly visible from the cafes in Myrties/Masouri”, say the equippers. The titanium glue-in bolts were fixed using high-end Hilti RE500 epoxy resin and all lower-offs feature titanium “Rams Horn” anchors.
 
See the equippers’ full account of the making of Titan Towers below. As always, Gordon and Francis, we greatly appreciate your meticulous work and all the accompanying information you have provided.
 
Approach: Start from Telendos Village and follow the marked path to the South Face multi-pitch routes (Wild Country, Eterna, Wings for Life). Halfway there, beneath the Inspiration sector high up, and just pas a welcome shady tree, is a yellow dot triangle and the name Titan Towers. Turn right here and follow a zig-zag yellow paint route up through a boulder field to the elevated base of the prominent towers. Walking time: 45 min.
 
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Return to the South Face of Telendos – The Titan Towers
 
Purportedly … only Mad Dogs and Englishmen go out in the midday sun.
 
As we bushwack up the never-ending steep slope, loaded down with ropes, drills and assorted new-routing equipment, both of us soaked in sweat in the 30 degree heat, we have to admit there might be a good reason why we had the entire South Face of the island all to ourselves!
 
Last year, during our daily commute across Telendos whilst en-route to bolt the new multi-pitch Eterna, we had taken a regular refreshment break at ‘the shady tree’. Looking up to the Inspiration Cave area above our eyes were always drawn to a fantastic looking double pinnacle; which we nicknamed ‘the towers’. To any climber’s gaze these compelling 70m ‘towers’ gestured like a big finger just willing you to come and visit. Every day as we walked on by, we kept saying the same thing … “can’t believe nobody has done any routes there?”
 
So here we are, laden with gear, cooking in the sun and now looking up at a series of soaring corners, cracks and arêtes. “Bloody hell … what a place!” It was certainly living up to expectations. Amazingly the crag was untouched, save for the low-level remnants of an abortive attempt (from an unknown party) on the central crack/corner line. Determined to do the place justice we unload a considerable pile of titanium glue-in bolts, drank even more water and get started ……………
 
The Titan Towers is a unique addition to the Kalymnos climbing scene and a welcome change from the more usual (amorphous) Mediterranean limestone. Big strong lines grab your attention, there’s a selection of grades and scrambling up its elevated base adds a nice touch of exposure to its character.
 
Gordon Jenkin, Francis Haden
September 2015

 
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All photos and photo-topo courtesy of Gordon Jenkin & Francis Haden
 
Titan Towers Topo / Pdf Version
 
Telendos - Titan Towers Picture Location 2.jpg

Getting to Titan Towers. Photo courtesy of Francis Haden and Gordon Jenkin

Getting to Titan Towers

Titan Towers Topo (Courtesy of Gordon Jenkin and Francis Haden)

Titan Towers Topo

Titanium "Rams Horns" anchors

Titanium “Rams Horns” anchors

Francis Haden on "Clash of the Titans" 6c+

Francis Haden on “Clash of the Titans” 6c+

Francis Haden lowering from Titan Towers

Francis Haden lowering from Titan Towers

This entry was posted on Tuesday, February 23rd, 2016 at 19:16 and is filed under Kalymnos news. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can skip to the end and leave a response. Pinging is currently not allowed.


3 Responses to ““Titan Towers”, a New Sector on the South Face of Telendos”

  1. Aludic says:

    Wow, looks cool. Almost makes me hope for a cloudy day to take on the adventure on this wonderful south face! Thanks!

  2. Chris Henshall says:

    Hi Frank,
    You may not remember but I reckon I’m the bloke who taught you to climb all those years ago back in Taunton. Still doing it and heading out to Kalymnos in three weeks with a group of school lads and see that you’ve been instrumental in quite a lot of route setting out there. Seems like the climbing thing worked well for you – delighted!
    Cheers,
    Chris H

  3. Francis says:

    Hey Chris,

    Great to hear from you.

    Can you contact me via my site; https://francishaden.wordpress.com/

    Looking forward to catching up 👍🏻

    Cheers,

    Francis

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